Item 2017.351.5 - Smoking Coat or Dressing Gown made of Phulkari Silk Embroidery

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Smoking Coat or Dressing Gown made of Phulkari Silk Embroidery


  • 1880-1910 (Creation)

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Transferred from the Shelagh Lovett-Turner Collection

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Smoking coat or dressing gown made from a piece of phulkari bagh embroidery. The ground of the fabric is terracotta red cotton which has been hand embroidered all over in a square and diamond shaped geometric pattern in three different shades of gold silk floss thread (un twisted). The gown has been made to avoid cutting the textile with details such as pleats over the shoulders and overlapped embroidered selvedge edges down the centre back. The bell shaped sleeves are lined in dark red silk. It fastens centre front with three metal hooks and cotton thread loops. There is a short tab or bar roughly stitched to the left side of the centre front opening near the top loop. Small ink stains to the right front edge, the bottom hem is unfinished with a raw fraying edge.
Country of Design: India (Punjab)
Country of Manufacture: India (Punjab)
Keywords: Leisure wear, informal dress, night wear

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Cotton embroidered with floss silk thread
Colour/Print: Red, gold
Details: Phulkari bagh hand embroidery

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