Item 2018.199 - Montague Burton Black Double Breasted Jacket

Montague Burton Black Double Breasted Jacket Montague Burton Black Double Breasted Jacket

Identity area

Reference code

2018.199

Title

Montague Burton Black Double Breasted Jacket

Date(s)

  • 1936-1940 (Creation)

Level of description

Item

Extent and medium

1

Context area

Name of creator

(1954-)

Administrative history

Burton became the label for Montague Burton Ltd in 1954 after a company restructure and merger with Jackson the Tailor. This resulted in a complete redesign and launch of a comprehensive new advertising campaign aimed at young male consumers. In 1969 the company became the Burton Group. Its demerger in 1997 led to the establishment of the Arcadia Group.

Montague Burton Ltd was founded in the early 1900s by Jewish immigrant Montague Burton (1885-1952). Born a Lithuanian Jew named Meshe David Osinsky, he travelled to the north of England in 1900 and quickly entered the men's tailoring trade, changing his name at some point after his arrival. After starting with a shop selling menswear he began manufacturing and adopted the multiple tailoring model pioneered by the Leeds-based tailoring trade. Multiple tailors had high street stores selling made-to-measure men's suits (and smaller numbers of ready-to-wear) which were cut and sewn in factories owned by the same business. By the end of the 1930s Montague Burton Ltd had over 700 outlets across Great Britain and Ireland and their Hudson Road factory in Leeds was the biggest clothing factory in Europe.

In 1946 the company purchased the Peter Robinson department store and in 1968 it was the top floor of Sheffield's Peter Robinson which was the origin of Top Shop. Aimed at selling fashionable clothes to 15-25 year-old women it was immediately successful and became a retail chain in its own right. Burton attempted to reach young men with the Mr Burt label and stores in the early 1970s but they were not profitable. In 1978 after a major restructure and store closures the company again tried to cater to the young male fashion market with the launch of Top Man - by 1980 they had expanded to 45 shops.

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Content and structure area

Scope and content

Double breasted long line jacket with wide, curved lapels and wide padded shoulders and extra shoulder roll to create a broad silhouette. A button hole features on each lapel. It has four buttons at the front and fastens with a single button and internal security button and three buttons at each cuff (non working). It has a curved welt pocket on the left breast and two jetted pockets without flaps. It has two front central darts that run into the jetted pockets and no back vents to ensure a fitted silhouette. It is unusually lined in a black cotton sateen with the sleeves lined in a beige cotton with black and blue stripes.
Country of Design: England
Country of Manufacture: England

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Conditions governing access

Item on loan to "Invisible Men" exhibition , 24 Oct-24 Nov 2019

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Language and script notes

Physical characteristics and technical requirements

Wool
Colour/Print: Black
Details: Double breasted, no back vents, cotton lining, jetted pockets
Label: Oceanic Serge. Montague Burton Tailor of Taste

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Note

Invisible Men exhibition label:

BLACK DOUBLE-BREASTED JACKET
Montague Burton Ltd
1936-1940

Sources of the double-breasted style in tailoring include riding coats of the 1700s and the frock coat of the 1800s. Double-breasted jackets were popular in the 1930s and this one was made by the company Montague Burton who reached their peak by the end of the decade with over 600 shops across Great Britain and Ireland.

Wool
Archive no. 2018.199

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