Item 2019.116 - Aitor Throup x Umbro Archive Research Project Trousers

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Aitor Throup x Umbro Archive Research Project Trousers


  • 2011 (Creation)

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Biographical history

Aitor Throup grew up in Burnley, Lancashire. He studied at Manchester Metropolitan University and the Royal College of Art where he obtained an MA in Fashion Menswear. He established his design house A.T. Studio in 2007 and has worked as a design and creative consultant for companies such as Umbro, C.P. Company and G-Star Raw. In 2012 he launched his own brand and product line 'New Object Research.

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Umbro was established as a sportswear company in a workshop in Wilmslow, Greater Manchester by Harold and Wallace Humphreys in 1924. Originally using the name Humphreys Brothers, they took the 'UM' from Humphreys and the 'BRO' from Brothers to create the new company name. Particularly known for supplying football kits (notably the England team) they have also made specialist kit for other sports including tennis, athletics and basketball. They introduced the first children's replica football kits in 1959 and started making football boots in 1985. The Humphrey family sold in 1992 and since then Umbro has had a number of different owners including Nike between 2007-2012.

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The 2011 Archive Research Project saw Umbro team up with Aitor Throup, following on from their 2009 England Home Kit and 2010 Away Kit. For the project Throup reworked seven iconic archive pieces, including the legendary Ramsey Jacket (inspired by England footballer and manager Sir Alf Ramsey) and Aztec football shirt, focusing on ergonomics and anatomy. The research process involved considering what made the original so popular, then designing each item around casts of footballers in a number of poses to look at the points at which articulation was most important.


Invisible Men exhibition label:

Aitor Throup X Umbro
Aitor Throup’s collaboration with Umbro focussed on his signature use of innovative cut and fabric panelling to enable better movement for the wearer. His reinterpretation of Sir Alf Ramsey’s iconic jacket from the 1960s is displayed inside out to show the taped seams and ribbing that has been inserted at key stress points.

Cotton, nylon, elastane
Archive no. 2018.14 and 2019.116

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